Colombia’s llanos orientales, or eastern plains, are vast tropical grasslands east of the Andes and north of the Amazon. Comprising wetlands, savannah, and gallery forests the llanos span a cross-border region between Colombia and Venezuela, covering over 350,000 square kilometres of the Orinoco river basin. During the wet season (May to September) vast areas of the grasslands flood, producing one of the continent’s most important breeding grounds for water birds. The effect of the huge body of water at this time of year is so impressive that legend has it that a group of early European explorers believed they had arrived at the Pacific Ocean (in fact still some 500km to the west).

We like to think of this part of the country as Colombia’s best kept secret. Until recently the only visitors to the region were a lucky few discerning travellers or wealthy locals who would stay on one of the few huge hatos or ranches, most of which are over 50,000 hectares in size. These days, although the region has opened up a little more, the accommodation options are still very limited and visitor numbers remain remarkably low meaning you will still feel like a privileged pioneer, discovering one of South America’s last great pristine wildernesses.